Jackson (Mt) to Jackson (Wy)

Sunday July 2nd
Destination: Jackson, Montana
I got my obligatory mountain pass in today with the climb from Hamilton up Lost Trail Pass then over adjacent Chief Joseph Pass. The road climbed gradually for 35 miles then kicked up for the last ten. It was a reasonable temperature with some clouds to give relief from the sun. I met Jani at Big Hole and we looked at the exhibits and watched the video describing the battle between Nez Perce and Army soldiers. It was very dramatic reading accounts from both sides while looking down on the battlefield site. It’s hard to believe that for the last 4 days and 350 miles we’ve been following the route the Nez Perce took, and won’t leave it until we’re in Yellowstone.
I talked with a rider from Iowa who started in Virginia in mid-April. He’s ridden with other people but has been on his own since Kansas. It’s really hard for groups to stay together; they all seem to split up.
Leaving all puns aside we didn’t feel like staying in Wisdom and proceeded south to Jackson. The bugs are a nuisance in the Big Hole area, probably because there is so much irrigation but this is a very scenic area. We’re camped behind the Jackson Hot Springs Lodge which is the only place in this village of 38 people, but Jackson definitely has a much nicer feel than Wisdom and I’m glad we pushed on. There is a Harley convention here tomorrow so it’s probably a good thing that we’re leaving in the morning. The bikers we’ve met have all been really nice, in fact the Harley riders are the only motorcyclists who will wave to me, but this is a small resort for many people.
Mileage: 95/1156 Transam Riders: 1/8

Jani: While waiting for Gary at Lost Trail Pass I talked with a forest service ranger, named Curly. I asked him if he knew my grandfather, Gene Powers and he said no, but this other guy that was standing there whips his head around and says “sure I knew him, he was supervisor in Salmon for a lot of years”. His wife’s name is Arlene Westfall and his name is Carl.

Monday July 3rd
Destination: Virginia City, Montana
I rode a long ways today but we didn’t make it very far east because the route zigzagged up and down. First it went SE to Dillon, then NE to New Bridges, SE to Alder, then finally East to Virginia City. I climbed over two passes on the way to Dillon and although they didn’t gain much elevation I could feel the effects of riding at over 7000’. Hopefully these elevations will help get me ready for Colorado.
Last night we had thunderstorms and had to scurry around in the dark bringing in things that shouldn’t have been left out. There were more storms this afternoon but I was lucky that the route skirted them. I may have to finish earlier in the day if afternoon storms are now the norm.
Virginia City is an interesting collection of old buildings from it’s day as a gold rush town in the late 1800’s. It would be nice to stay here for the 4th of July celebrations but the RV Park owner thinks all the spaces will be taken. Ennis is only 15 miles away and we may end up staying there tomorrow night. I feel like I could use a short day.
Mileage: 106/1262 Transam Riders: 0/8


Big Sky and Big Clouds outside Dillon, Montana
(click on any picture for a larger view)

Tuesday July 4th
Destination: Ennis, Montana
Today was the shortest ride yet. We are in Ennis which is only 14 miles east of Virginia City. Even though Jani got here by 9AM we were lucky to get a camping spot behind a motel. The town was overflowing with people here for the 4th of July festivities. We watched the parade then hung out at the local park. It’s been a very restful day. Tomorrow we go to West Yellowstone.
One thing I’ve noticed lately is that there are all sorts of creatures that can make distracting noises. Some birds can sound just like a squeaky chain and seem to keep time with my pedaling, others can sound just like the cell phone ringing. Or maybe I’m just losing it in all the wide open spaces.
Mileage: 14/1276 Transam Riders: 0/8

Wednesday July 5th
Destination: West Yellowstone, Montana
Headwinds and rain helped me atone for some of the tailwinds and sunny weather in Oregon. The wind was so strong that I was in my lowest gear for long stretches. Fortunately the wind switched at the same time the rain started so I only had to deal with one opponent at a time.
The scenery was great as usual. Montana has had a different feel with broad valley floors ringed by mountains. I’ve also seen some different wildlife. Several times today I’d glance over and see pronghorns watching me. Then they’d go bounding off showing their white behinds. I saw a badger for the first time ever today. It was going to cross the highway then saw me and reversed direction. It was so flat with a long coat that it looked like a long toupee shooting across the ground.
Tomorrow we’re going to spend the day playing tourist in Yellowstone then head to Jackson to visit friends on Friday.
Mileage: 72/1348 Transam Riders: 2/10


South of Ennis, Montana

Thursday July 6th
Destination: West Yellowstone, Montana
One of the reasons for choosing this bike route was the chance to go through Yellowstone. Until now it has just been an abstraction but it was a real bonus to spend the day in the Park. We saw lots of elk and bison, no bear, but we saw tourists going into the woods to view a bear cub. Where’s Darwin when you need him?
Tomorrow I hope to get an early start as I’ll be riding through the Park. If everything works out I’ll be most of the way through the Park before the RV crowd wakes up.
Mileage: 0/1348 Transam Riders: 0/10


Yellowstone Falls from Artist Point

Friday July 7th
Destination: Jackson, Wyoming
It rained hard all night and was still raining when we got up but had stopped by the time I started and just got better and better. The road was really good to about ten miles past Old Faithful. After that it was narrow but the downhills let me stay a little ahead of the traffic. As impressive as the scenery was I still kept an eye on my rear view mirror looking for rogue RV’s. Fortunately they all moved over and gave me plenty of room.
The first views of the Tetons were as dramatic as the first time. They’re like Crater Lake, or the Matterhorn. You just can’t believe they look as impressive as the postcards.
Jani met me at Moran Junction which is where I’ll pick up the route headed east for Dubois and Rawlins. For now we are at our friends Bill and Patti who live just south of Jackson. Bill and I have been friends since kindergarten which is now more decades than we’re willing to admit to. Jani and I were here ten years ago and it’s another bonus of the route to be here again.
Tomorrow Bill is going to take us down the Snake River thru Tetons Park. He is a fly fishing guide, is taking his birthday off to float the river, and we’re lucky enough to be in the right spot at the right time.
Mileage: 96/1444 Transam Riders: 2/12

Saturday July 8th
Destination: Jackson, Wyoming
This is the second day off in three days and it could become habit forming. We had a five star day. It couldn’t have been any better. People come from all over the world to do what we did. The weather was fabulous and the fish didn’t care that Jani and I don’t know squat about fishing. In some of the areas we would catch fish on every cast. I even got to try fly fishing and got a taste of how addictive it can be. I know winters here can be harsh but the summer days can make up for a lot of snow.
Tomorrow I’ll get back on the bike. It should be interesting since I’ll have to go over a pass that is just under 10,000 feet on the way to Dubois.
Mileage: 0/1444 Transam Riders: 0/12


Fishing on the Snake River in Teton National Park