Finished

This is the final Blog entry. Thanks for all the comments. We enjoyed reading and took support from all of them. I leave with a quotation attributed to Mark Twain:

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines sail away from the safe harbor catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.

Thanks,
Gary and Jani



Friday August 18th thru Thursday August 24th
We spent Friday morning driving around the Lancaster area. The Amish have beautiful farms. It’s fun to get a glimpse of how they live but I feel a little guilty, like a Peeping Tom staring through the bedroom window. They have many things for sale: vegetables; prepared foods; quilts; and furniture. Hopefully they make a decent return for having so many people watching them. In the afternoon we drove west and spent the night at a freeway rest stop somewhere in the middle of Ohio.
Saturday we drove all day and spent the night outside Rochester, Minnesota. The miles were drawn out by having to stop at all the toll booths especially around Chicago.
Sunday was another all day drive to Badlands National Park southeast of Rapid City, South Dakota. We were tired from 2 ½ days of driving but satisfied at having finished over half of the homeward journey.
Monday morning we toured the Badlands. I have some memories from when I was there in 1964 and the return visit didn’t disappoint. We have a much better appreciation for that kind of scenery from having visited Death Valley several times. In the afternoon we continued on to Mt. Rushmore, another place I last saw 42 years ago. It was impressive to see the mountain especially since we had visited the homes Washington and Jefferson, and the birthplace of Lincoln. The ½ mile loop trail at the base got away from the crowds and gave really interesting perspectives of the statue. We got a campsite at a Forest Service Campground just down the hill from Rushmore which was convenient since we returned later that evening to see the illumination ceremony. The lighting of the heads was impressive against the black sky.


The Badlands


Mount Rushmore

Tuesday morning we took a 1.5 hour underground tour of Jewel Cave National Monument. The cave is the second longest in the world with over 135 miles of mapped passageways of which we traveled a half mile. It’s a limestone cavern with fascinating crystal formations. I’m a little claustrophobic but wasn’t bothered since the passageways are large enough to walk through. After the cave we continued on to Devil’s Tower in Wyoming. It also compared very well with my childhood memories. There were quite a few people at the visitor’s center but we got away from all but a few by hiking around the base of the tower.
Wednesday we drove to Missoula then home on Thursday.


Devils Tower

I’m in the process of catching up on everything after being gone for ten weeks but still hope to make good use of my remaining time off.

August 17

Sunday August 13th thru Thursday August 17th
We visited Colonial Williamsburg on Sunday then drove toward Washington DC. On Monday we visited Jani’s sister in-law Natalie (her brother is in Texas on business) and ended up staying with her for three nights. After finding a kennel for Kira we toured Mount Vernon. That evening Natalie took us into Georgetown for dinner and a walk around the town.
We spent Tuesday and Wednesday touring the museums and memorials in DC. There is so much to see in the museums. It would take a lifetime to see everything but it was fun to see the American History, Natural History, Air and Space, American Indian Museum, and the National Gallery. We also toured the Capitol Building and the National Archives.
Thursday we drove north to Lancaster in the Pennsylvania Dutch country. We’ll spend today looking around then head west. I think our next goal is to see the sites in western South Dakota.

LOOKING BACK

It will take a while for the trip to sink in but we already know that this has been a life defining trip. Now that the riding is over it’s time to think about what worked and what didn’t work.

THE ROUTE
I’m really pleased with the Transam Route. One of the biggest reasons I chose it is because it went to areas that I hadn’t seen or wanted to see again. All of these panned out. It was fun to visit family/friends in Salem Oregon, Jackson Wyoming, Godfrey Illinois, and Alexandria Virginia. We enjoyed following the paths of Lewis and Clark, and the Nez Perce. We learned about Abraham Lincoln, Stonewall Jackson, Thomas Jefferson, and George Washington by visiting their homes. We gave identity to the places that were new to us: Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky, and Virginia. To steal from the author Beryl Markham, those states had just been different splotches of color on the US map. Now they have entire identities in our minds. If not for this trip I don’t think we’d ever have visited some of them. We may never go back but we won’t forget either.
I’m also convinced that riding from West to East was the correct decision. I couldn’t have relaxed enough to enjoy sightseeing if we had started in the East. The only thing on my mind would have been to start riding. The other thing it did was gradually take us from the known to unknown. Ocean Park has been a part of my life from my first memories. As we went west we gradually went further and further away from what we know. Even Colorado looked somewhat familiar but Kansas was new and places in the Appalachians felt like a different country.

THE LOGISTICS
Our gear has been superb. There are very few things that we haven’t used. The only thing I can think of is cold weather clothing and we may still get a chance for that.
The Eurovan has been the perfect vehicle. We’re able to be completely self-sufficient for several days at a time in a vehicle that’s been easy for Jani to drive and gets 20-22 miles per gallon. Lots of people have been curious about the van in campgrounds. I suppose it does look kind of unique (funny) with the roof extended but is surprisingly comfortable. It really has been home except for the days when it was too hot. Even though we enjoyed having air conditioned motel rooms it was always a relief when we could get back to camping in the van. We’ve worked out a really good system with the van. Everything has a place and everything’s in it’s place. It makes us (well maybe me more than Jani) look forward to future trips in the van.
The bike worked great. I’m glad to have replaced most of the parts before leaving. I’m also glad that I was lucky enough to not need most of the spare parts that I brought. The only thing I’d have done differently would be to use a lower gear. Obviously I was able to ride with the gearing I had but it did test me at times.

BEST THINGS ABOUT THE TRIP

FRIENDLY PEOPLE
I enjoyed people who’d say hi or wave to me from their front porch when I cycled past. We enjoyed people who would stop whatever they were doing just to talk with us. We enjoyed the fact that people would go out of their way to help like the man in Sonora, Kentucky who walked across a park to find out what the problem Jani was having, then helped give Kira her medicine.

WILDLIFE
We really enjoyed the birds. There were ones new to us: Scissor Tailed Flycatchers, Black Vultures, Saw Whet Owls, and Wild Turkeys. Others that we’ve seen before but still enjoy are: Cardinals, Mourning Doves, and Rufous Hummingbirds.
New animals included: badgers, woodchucks, turtles on the road, and armadillos. Old favorites were: Bison, Pronghorn, and Elk.
The insects were impressive for their noise (Cicadas), for glowing at night (Lightning Bugs), and for being larger and heavier than any flying bug has a right to be (huge flying beetles which constantly hit me in the face while riding).

FINDING THAT RURAL AMERICA STILL EXISTS
I think we all want to believe that there are still places untainted by the hustle and bustle of city life; places where the words road and rage exist but not in the same sentence; places where people don’t lock their doors then look at you like you’ve insulted them if you lock your car door; and places where the pace of life is slow enough to enjoy the little things like just sitting in front of the town courthouse. I loved stopping at General Stores with wood floors; you have the feeling that if they don’t have it you can probably do without. A large part of our route felt like we weren’t just traveling east but also back in time.

GREAT CYCLING
Every state had great cycling. They all offered different things. Kansas showed me that flat can be fun. Colorado showed me that I can ride my bike at elevations higher than all but two of the mountains in Washington. Missouri showed me that the Ozarks are worth visiting. The Appalachians helped teach me humility about small but steep mountains.

WORST THINGS ABOUT THE TRIP

BAD DRIVERS
This has to be at the top of the list since at worst it is a matter of life or death, and at the least is an annoyance that threatened my enjoyment of the trip. The worst of the worst were oncoming cars that would pass in my lane even though they saw me. Because they didn’t want to wait a couple of seconds they had to endanger my life and scare the daylights out of me. Lower down on the list were drivers who wouldn’t move over even an inch when passing. The one consolation I have is that my life isn’t so crappy that the highlight of my day is harassing a cyclist.

ROAD KILL
It’s unfortunate to see how many animals are killed along the highways. It’s really bad when they’ve been in the hot sun for days and I had no choice but to smell it at a slow pace. It seemed like only half the road kill was visible and the rest out of sight but not out of smell. One of the biggest losers in the animal kingdom is the skunk. Spraying another animal may stop it from attacking but doesn’t do much to stop a car.

HOT HUMID WEATHER
I hesitate to put this on the list since we knew it was inevitable. No one was surprised that it was hot and humid on the East Coast in August. I feel okay about how I dealt with the heat on the bike, and on the other hand feel no remorse about hiding from it in motels at night. In retrospect I might have researched getting a small air conditioner for the van.

RIDE DATA

TIME
56 total days
14 nights in motels
42 nights camping
48 days riding
8 days off (includes days that I only rode 13 and 14 miles)
263.2 hours total riding
7.9 hours: longest day on bike

DISTANCE
4294 miles
77 miles: average per day
89 miles: average per day of riding
122 miles: longest day riding (Kansas)
675 miles: most in a week (Kansas)
383 miles: fewest in a week (Wyoming)

SPEED
16.3 mph: average for trip
14.7 mph: slowest average speed (Virginian Appalachians)
21.0 mph: fastest average speed (Kansas)

ELEVATION
163,890 feet: total gain for the trip
38 feet/mile: average gain per mile
80 feet mile: hilliest day (Virginian Appalachians)
2 feet/mile: flattest day (Western Kansas)

BICYCLE
Zero f#*!’s (sudden loss of tire pressure)
I’m too superstitious to use the “f”word
2 sets of tires
2 chains
1 broken spoke

Yorktown

Wednesday August 9th
Destination: Lexington, Virginia
We had a lot of fun today. After a late morning start I met Jani 30 miles up the road at Natural Bridge which is an entire resort (tourist trap) built around a rock arch. All of the manmade stuff aside the rock bridge is very impressive. It is 215’ feet high, 90’ thick at the top, and the stream that carved it still runs below. 200+ years ago it was a major attraction; Thomas Jefferson bought the land in 1774. They didn’t explain when or how the swimming pool, putt-putt golf, and wax museum were added but they were easy to ignore.
From Natural Bridge it was a short ride to Lexington where I was to meet Jani and finalize plans to camp about ten miles out of town. The town is so nice that when we found an RV Park it was an easy decision to spend the afternoon playing tourist. Lexington’s population is 6000 and it hosts Washington and Lee (W&L) College, and Virginia Military Institute (VMI). W&L College campus looks like a movie set with beautiful buildings of red brick offset with white columns. When the Union Army attacked Lexington they destroyed VMI but left W&L (at the time named Washington College) because it was named after the first president. VMI was a letdown. All the buildings are the same drab khaki color and don’t have any apparent aesthetic value. Maybe that shouldn’t surprise me since the military shouldn’t be judged by Better Homes and Gardens.
Stonewall Jackson’s house and Robert E. Lee’s tomb are also in Lexington. I’m so ignorant of Civil War history that it was very informative to tour Jackson’s house. We didn’t see Lee’s tomb but the famous joke pertains to Grant’s tomb anyway.
It’s been a little depressing on this trip to see so many of the rural small towns in various states of decay. Lexington on the other hand seems to be a thriving community. The difference could be the stabilizing effect of the two colleges, and/or its historical significance. The other huge factor in our positive experience today was that the weather was comfortable enough (88 degrees and overcast) to be outside. There have been other towns like Bardstown, Kentucky that looked interesting but it was so hot we were confined to our air conditioned room.
Tomorrow should be fun since we will be on the Blue Ridge Parkway for about 30 miles. We plan on staying in or near Charlottesville which is next door to Thomas Jefferson’s estate, Monticello.
Mileage: 46/4020 Transam Riders: 0 today/60 total for the trip


Natural Bridge

Thursday August 10th
Destination: Charlottesville, Virginia
I knew that it would be a good climb up to the Blue Ridge Parkway but was caught off guard by the steepness. The road up from the village of Vesuvius averaged 9% and was much steeper in places. Jani called me part way up and it took me awhile before I could speak I was so winded. I think it was the last hurrah; it was definitely a worthy climb.
It was cloudy on top and even rained a couple of times so the view wasn’t as good as it must be on a clear day. Fall must be spectacular when the leaves have changed. Someday I’d like to come back and ride the entire Parkway. Virginia has some incredible cycling country. I talked to four west bound riders on The Parkway. They realize how late in the summer it is and will be racing the snow in the Rockies and Cascades. I still envy them since their trip is just starting and mine is coming to a close.
After rolling along the top there was a quick descent to the surrounding “flatlands” which continued to work me over. Today turned out to have the second highest elevation gain per mile of the entire trip.
I met Jani in Charlottesville which is one of the bigger towns (40,000 people) we’ve been in this summer. I saw some of the University of Virginia campus and it looked like the Washington and Lee campus on a larger scale. The red brick buildings with large white columns are certainly very striking. In the hustle and bustle of the town it would have been hard for Jani and me to meet up without our cell phones. We have been very lucky to have had coverage over a very large percentage of the trip. The places where there wasn’t any coverage tended to be in the mountains where there was only one road and the towns were small enough that we could always meet on Main Street.
After meeting up in town we used our other magic technology: the GPS. We knew there was a campground outside town so all we had to do was search for campgrounds near Charlottesville then follow the voice commands. It makes it much more relaxing to drive through unfamiliar country.
Tomorrow morning we will start the day by visiting Monticello then head for Ashland which is north of Richmond. We have less than 200 miles left.
Mileage: 84/4104 Transam Riders: 4 today/64 total for the trip


Waterfall near Vesuvius

Friday August 11th
Destination: Ashland, Virginia
The highlight of the day was our visit to Monticello. Thomas Jefferson was such a great man that it inspires me to learn more about his life. He wrote his own epitaph and listed three simple things: “Author of the Declaration of American Independence, Of Statute of Virginia for religious freedom, and Father of the University of Virginia”. He didn’t even mention being the President for two terms. I also didn’t know that he died broke which is another lesson for a great life lived.
The riding today was okay but not that interesting. I think the route’s main objective was to stay away from Richmond, it took 23 different numbered roads. I couldn’t ride more than a couple of miles before looking at the map and was continually chanting the next road number to myself. It didn’t help when I’d transpose a number or misread the map.
Being this close to the end is a bittersweet feeling. I’m really happy to complete this dream but sorry to have it end. I’ll have to deal with this in my usual way which is to start planning my next trip. The great thing is that my next trip lasts four weeks and begins when I get off my bike tomorrow in Yorktown.
Mileage: 94/4198 Transam Riders: 1 today/65 total for the trip


Monticello

Saturday August 12th
Destination: YORKTOWN, Virginia

WE MADE IT!!!

If the biking has to end then at least it ended on a good note. Unlike yesterday’s route there were only a few different roads to remember. That combined with the flatter terrain made for fast riding. It was reassuring to find that my legs were strong once out of the hills and I pushed really hard. The first half of the route followed a Civil War Battlefield Route. In 1862 the Union Army tried to capture Richmond. When that didn’t work they retreated south to the James River. The Union and Confederate Armies battled for seven days over many miles of forest and swamp. Some of the battlefields had cannons and gave more of a feeling for how savage the fighting must have been.
When we got to the official route end at the Yorktown Memorial there was a couple there with a tandem and trailer. I’ve been hearing for weeks about them and four others they rode with. It was ironic to catch them in the final hour. The first thing they asked me was how I felt about finishing. When I said that it was a little depressing they agreed and explained that this was their third cross country trip in three years. They’ve now done the Southern Tier, Northern Tier, and Transam routes. It all started when he asked for three months off from work and his company refused, so he retired and has been biking each summer since.
Now we’re ready to start the second part of our trip. We’re camped in Williamsburg and will visit the Colonial town in the morning, then go to Jamestown. Next year will be the 400th anniversary of Jamestown and Virginia. After that it’s up to the DC area, then who knows what we’ll do. In all my planning I made sure to have maps of every state for the bike route but forgot to include an atlas. When we find one then we can start mapping out our route home.
Mileage: 96/4294 Transam Riders: 2 today/67 total for the trip


Atlantic Baptism

Virginia!

Friday August 4th
Destination: Buckhorn, Kentucky
It poured last night. When we got up it had stopped raining and there was only a low overcast remaining. Just out of town we started into the Appalachians. I haven’t seen clouds or hills in a long time. It looks like we won’t get into higher elevations until the day after tomorrow. Today the route continually climbed from about 700’ to 1200’ and the hills weren’t that much higher. It was very scenic and with the high humidity the forest seems like I imagine the Amazon to look. The feeling of being in a different country is helped by the trouble we have understanding the local’s.
The route was very roundabout today even using one lane roads that reminded me of Scotland. I kept a sharp lookout for dogs but didn’t have too much problem. I saw the first of another reported nuisance today: coal trucks. They are giant semi trucks and were so heavy they could barely crawl up the hills, but they scream along when empty. A couple of west bounders told me that the truck traffic is heavy for about a half day’s travel.
While riding today I thought about the stereotypes of Appalachian people. We’ve definitely seen some characters but this area seems to carry a disproportionate Hollywood burden. It’s hard to ride along desolate roads and not think about the fact that the movie script would have people lurking behind trees and jumping out at every opportunity.
I saw a number of turtles on the road today including one that was spotted with yellow. It was stopped on the centerline and blended in better than the other turtles. It must be natural selection working to camouflage it from predators. I’m sure it’s a new species and have decided to name it Mimicus centerlinecus.
Since the temperature was only about 90 degrees we’re camped in the van. We’ll find out in a few hours if that was a smart idea. If it’s too unpleasant then I may have to do a long day tomorrow to reach the nearest hotel.
Mileage: 77/3626 Transam Riders: 2 today/58 total for the trip


Entering the Appalachians


New Species?

Saturday August 5th
Destination: Elkhorn City, Kentucky
Somewhere in the hills of Eastern Kentucky two cheeks are lying on a road. I know this because I worked my butt off today. The route started out climbing from Buckhorn and kept going all day. My vertical gain was almost 7000’. I climbed over ridges, climbed up valleys, and climbed over passes, then did it all over again, and over again. The terrain was pretty but everything looked the same. For all I know I could’ve been riding in circles.
The people in Kentucky are laid back, some to the point of being almost comatose. That changes the second they get behind the steering wheel. Everyone’s seen teenagers recklessly speeding on country roads. All the drivers here seem to go at least that fast. It hasn’t just been the country drivers either, they drive the same way in the bigger towns. Fortunately the cars have all been courteous to me but Jani is tired of being tailgated. She pulls over as soon as she can but many of these roads don’t have pullouts. One benefit of riding on Saturday is that there were dozens and dozens of coal trucks parked for the weekend. The roads are exciting enough without having to share them with those behemoths.
We’re several miles from Virginia which is our final state.
Mileage: 109/3735 Transam Riders: 0 today/58 total for the trip


Breaks Interstate Park on the Kentucky-Virginia Border

Sunday August 6th
Destination: Damascus, Virginia
It was raining when I started this morning and the temperature was 67 degrees. I can’t remember the last time it was below 70 degrees. It wasn’t much more uncomfortable than the sunny weather since I’m always sopped from the humidity anyway. The rain did make me nervous on the twisty descents; I’m really conscious about not screwing up this close to the end. It was dry after a few miles so the showers must have been just localized thunderstorms.
The road continued to climb today. The hills were not as steep as yesterday but they were longer. We were just in the foothills yesterday since we climbed much higher (up to 2800’) today and the surrounding mountains were up to 5000’ high. The valleys were wider and I enjoyed being able to see the forest for the trees. One other improvement was that there were fewer cars on the road this morning. I know some of them were at church and there might have been a Nascar race on TV for everyone else. The other thing I enjoyed not having to deal with today was problem dogs. I saw dogs today but not one of them chased me. They weren’t horrible in Kentucky but it’s nice not having to stay on my guard.
I’m not really sure how far we will travel through the Appalachian’s but it looks like there are more on the menu for tomorrow. The Appalachian Trail crosses through Damascus so that’s a good sign that we’ll be in the mountains a little longer.
Mileage: 79/3814 Transam Riders: 0 today/58 total for the trip


Mountain Road West of Rosedale, Virginia

Monday August 7th
Destination: Wytheville, Virginia
I decided to do a short day in the hope that my legs will recover a little from all the climbing. In the 300 miles from Berea to where we came out of the mountains today in Virginia the route gained 21,000’. This is phenomenal hill riding country.
It was overcast today and fairly comfortable. The route started climbing right out of Damascus and went over two distinct passes. The second one was over 3500’ high. As I reached the top thunder was booming across the hills. I decided that the trees which have blocked my views were now welcome shelter from any lightning. Once again I was treated to superb descents. I’d love to ride them many times and be able to really open things up. Of course I’d probably push it too far and put in some “air time”. All year long I’ve been afraid of doing something stupid and that feeling increases the closer we get to Yorktown.
The mountain vegetation seems thicker here than it was in Kentucky where it seemed the Oaks kept other plants from growing. The under growth here includes wild rhododendrons reminding me of the Olympic Peninsula. I don’t know how settlers navigated through these jungles. I wouldn’t stand a chance. Even if you climbed to the top of a hill all you’d see would be more trees. Once we came down out of the mountains the country changed to rolling hills. There aren’t as many crops here but there is pasture everywhere. There also are more dairy farms than we’ve seen elsewhere and still a few tobacco fields.
I talked to a rider headed our direction. It seemed a little odd that all of the east bound riders I’ve met have been heavily laden until I realized that I only catch the slower riders. This guy is from Oregon and told me he’s carrying 65 pounds of gear. That’s about twice what I think is necessary and has to make the riding painfully slow on the hills. I have to hand it to him though since he’s ridden every mile that I have.
Mileage: 59/3873 Transam Riders: 2 today/60 total for the trip



Countryside near Wytheville, Virginia

Tuesday August 8th
Destination: Daleville, Virginia
Today was tough. My legs didn’t recover yesterday in spite of the shorter mileage. I might be dehydrated since it’s almost impossible to drink enough fluids. Gatorade really helps while riding but I must have exceeded my lifetime quota this summer.
It was great rolling terrain today through beautiful farm land and I had to force myself to relax and enjoy the scenery. Luckily it was overcast and not too hot. The tailwinds were also in my favor.
I saw more wildlife today. There were woodchucks alongside the road. They’re smaller and darker than marmots but similar in shape. For excitement a doe jumped across the road just feet in front of me while her fawn crossed behind. The adrenaline rush was good for a few miles. There were more turtles in the road and a large black rat snake. The snake didn’t scare me since I saw it from a distance, it didn’t look venomous, and it was moving away from me.
Some of the route crisscrossed Highway 81 west of Roanoke. The increased traffic only accentuated how remote 99% of this route has been. It’s been amazing to ride this far in sparsely populated country. It looks like we’ll be near more large cities for the rest of the trip; hopefully the route will stay on lightly used roads.
I’m not sure how far I’ll ride tomorrow. There is no rush but I do feel the finish line calling. It’s about 320 miles to Yorktown which should be about four more days. That would have us finish on Saturday.
Mileage: 101/3974 Transam Riders: 0 today/60 total for the trip


Black Rat Snake?

Kentucky

Tuesday August 1st
Destination: East View, Kentucky
Today was another scorcher. I got about 50 miles to the gallon of Gatorade. At about $6 per gallon that’s a little on the expensive side. It was good that I started riding at sunrise. When the sun comes up the fuse is lit and it’s a race to see how far I can ride before the temperature blows up.
It was surprising to see all of the mist this morning but it wasn’t as interesting as it poured off me. I find late morning is the most comfortable time to ride; it isn’t broiling but has warmed up just enough to reduce the humidity a little.
I caught another east bound rider and rode with him for about an hour. He started out a month before us but has about 65 pounds of gear on his bike. That’s an unbelievable weight to be hauling. He must have a couple of kitchen sinks in the panniers. Because of the weight difference our pace was too slow for me and too fast for him, so I took off. I also saw five west bound riders.
The riding was okay until noon at which time I had ridden 75 miles; after that it got really hot and time stood still. I could only ride about ten miles before having to stop and buy more liquids. Fortunately there were plenty of convenience stores along the way. I finished at 2:30 in East View and we drove north to a motel in Elizabethtown. Back when no one traveled it was probably okay to reuse town names; now it’s downright confusing to have spent Sunday night in Elizabethtown, Illinois and Tuesday night in Elizabethtown, Kentucky. We’ll try for a new town name tomorrow.
Mileage: 108/3378 Transam Riders: 6 today/54 total for the trip


Early Morning's are Best

Wednesday August 2nd
Destination: Bardstown, Kentucky
It was a shorter day but I started a little later and still got char broiled. I’m beginning to think that the total distance doesn’t matter, only the distance ridden after noon. Today I was lucky that the terrain was gently rolling and accompanied by tailwinds most of the time.
Jani and I took separate routes but still happened to meet at Lincoln’s Birthplace near Hodgenville. They have a replica of the cabin he was born in but the most interesting thing to me was the family bible passed on to him by his parents.
The countryside is gradually changing. There are Amish scattered through the area. Their homes stand out from others because they don’t have electrical lines. We’re seeing fewer fields of corn and soy beans but now see tobacco fields. It’s obvious that tobacco was a much bigger crop in the past because there are drying sheds everywhere. They look like barns but are tall without windows and the vertical siding has gaps to let the air circulate. I don’t know if we’re in a more populated area but there are many homes with large horse pastures. Many of the homes also have extremely large lawns that are as large as city parks. It seems like the homeowners are always out mowing their yards, some guys even use full size tractors. We also notice many more cemeteries here than at home. It might be because they’re closer to the roads or maybe just because people have lived and died here longer than in the Northwest. Funeral Homes are also very prevalent and impressive buildings. We even saw a casket store in Henderson.
As advertised the dogs are out. They haven’t been too bad but I encountered one that wasn’t deterred by having a water bottle sprayed in his face. I realized that they’re probably experts who have encountered many riders. It was time to take the offensive. I picked up a couple of good sized rocks to carry in my jersey and started looking for dogs to hunt. No dog has come after me since but I’m still wary, especially after seeing a ramshackle home with a sign that said “pit bull blvd.”
Bardstown seems nice with a long history including Civil War Battles. We aren’t seeing much of the towns because of the heat. I bet fall or spring would be great times to be here.
Mileage: 63/3451 Transam Riders: 0 today/54 total for the trip


Tobacco Field and Drying Shed

Thursday August 3rd
Destination: Berea, Kentucky
I started riding at dawn this morning. The temperature was down to 73 degrees. It hasn’t been that cool in a few days. I really enjoy riding as the sun comes up especially riding out of town because all the traffic is going the other way. My overactive imagination didn’t want to be left out and reminded me that my limbless buddies also like the morning so I paid special attention to the road.
The route went through Springfield (Kentucky, not Missouri, not Illinois) then on to Harrodsburg. The riding was some of the best of the trip with small rolling hills and curving roads. Of course it didn’t hurt that there was a good tailwind today.
After Harrodsburg the scenery was still good but the heat dampened my enthusiasm. However there was one section that typified the excellent route selection as it followed a one lane road up a draw. I’m always amazed by how many small back roads I end up riding on.
Berea is on the west side of the Appalachian Mountains and I got glimpses of them today. Normally I would only consent to calling them hills but after all the flat land since the Rockies; they do look like mountains. The roads are supposed to be steep so I’d better treat them with respect.
I talked with two 20ish guys from Birmingham England who are going west. They don’t get started until about 10AM then have to ride through the heat of the day. I told them no amount of my sleep is worth riding that late in the day.
The big news is that there is a cold front coming which is supposed to bring thundershowers tonight into tomorrow morning. The high temperature is predicted to be only 88 degrees. That would seem chilly.
Mileage: 98/3549 Transam Riders: 2 today/56 total for the trip


Main Street Harrodsburg

Into the Fourth Quarter

We now have just under 1000 miles left to Yorktown, Virginia.

Friday July 28th
Destination: Chester, Illinois
I got a late start since it was only 50 miles to Chester. I met two women riding west and we shared information about the route. Each time I talk with west bounders we have the combined knowledge of every Transam mile but can only talk about what is behind us and have to guess at what’s ahead. I thought I was out of the steep hills and told the women about the climbs they had coming up. They seemed a little dismayed. After we parted I began to run into a lot of steep hills and realized that the women had just ridden those hills and must have thought the hills I’d ridden were much worse. In retrospect the hills ahead of them were no harder than the ones behind but we had no way of knowing that. We riders are like the mythical Janus with two faces; one looks back to the east, and one looks back to the west but neither can see what lies ahead.
When I crossed the Mississippi it not only meant that I was entering Illinois but that I’d made it out of Missouri without encountering a single rogue driver. I did get one comment about Spandex while riding through Eminence. That was stupid, didn’t the guy know that I wouldn’t be caught dead wearing Spandex. I only wear Lycra.
Jani met me in Chester and we drove about 80 miles north to Godfrey, Illinois. We’re staying the night with Tom, his wife Jane, daughter Betsy, and son Will. Tom works for Boeing St. Louis and I worked with him while he spent three months in Everett this year. It’s really fun to have a short break from the normal routine and visit with them. Tomorrow we’re going to St. Louis to see the city but primarily to see the Gateway Arch. We could see it off to the west while driving this afternoon and are looking forward to seeing it up close.
Mileage: 50/3105 Transam Riders: 4 today/47 total for the trip















Mississippi River Bridge from Chester, Illinois

Saturday July 29th
This was the fourth day on the trip with no riding and the first since Boulder, Colorado two weeks ago. It was nice to sleep in and spend a leisurely morning with Tom and his family. Tom drove us into the city where we visited the arch. After watching an informative movie about building the arch we rode the small elevator cars to the top. Since the cars are inside the arch there was no feeling of height but they’re very small and could be claustrophobic. The view from 630’ in the air was impressive. The arch seems the perfect blend of a simple aesthetic concept combined with impressive engineering and construction.
Before we left Tom and Jane’s she presented me with a denim shirt. She had embroidered a bicycle and the words “Transamerica ‘06” on the front. It was a complete surprise and I’ll wear it with pride. We can’t thank them enough for the hospitality they showed us.


Jani, Gary, and Gateway Arch

Sunday July 30th
Destination: Elizabethtown, Illinois
We spent a very hot and sticky night camped just north of Chester. When we got up it was cool but still muggy. Jani dropped me off in Chester with the understanding that we’d be staying in a motel tonight. The riding was nice but big thunderstorms to the south were threatening. Luckily the route seemed to keep me just to the edge of the lightning. Close enough to be exciting but just far enough away for comfort. The countryside was much like eastern Missouri with a lot of trees, corn, and soy bean fields. It was still hilly but enjoyable since the hills weren’t that steep. After noon it started to get really hot. It was still cool on the descents but I had to take it very slow on the uphill or risk overheating. When we got to Golconda the only motel was completely booked for a funeral. There are worse things than not finding a motel room. We were lucky to find a room just up the road in Elizabethtown. The Inn only allows pets in their guest cottage so we’re forced to put up with a bedroom, living room, kitchen, and Jacuzzi bath. Life’s tough.
This town is very scenic. It’s on the bank of the Ohio River which looks like a lake except for the occasional barge that passes by. We can see Kentucky across the river and will be there tomorrow.
Mileage: 110/3215 Transam Riders: 0 today/47 total for the trip


Thunderheads near Murphysboro, Illinois

Monday July 31st
Destination: Sebree, Kentucky
I got a late start this morning since it was so relaxing at the cottage. After yesterday’s longer ride I felt justified in a shorter ride today. The destination was also set by it’s vicinity to Henderson which is large enough to have motels. There were many times when we wanted campsites and could only find motels, now it’s just the opposite. With daytime highs in the 90’s and nighttime low temperatures about 80 degrees we’ve forsaken the van in favor of air conditioning.
The heat index today was 107 degrees. In a twisted way I’m glad to be riding in this extreme heat. For over a year the heat and humidity were the biggest unknowns of the trip. Everyone seems to have their horror tales about the heat and there wasn’t anything I could do to prepare, but I’ve now met my adversary and am a little relieved. It can get hotter, but the extreme heat advisories prove that this is more than just normal temperatures. I don’t want to downplay the conditions. The heat is a worthy challenger. It might very well be too much if combined with headwinds and/or really steep hills but so far I’ve been lucky with light winds and more rolling terrain. The biggest concession is that I spend all day expending as little effort as possible. If I push too hard I overheat so I ride as gently as possible, coast downhill and soft pedal uphill.
I caught my first eastbound rider today and rode with him for a bit. He’s loaded down and slower on the hills so I ended up riding on. His gear choices are the opposite of mine: recumbent bicycle, two wheeled trailer, hiking boots, hiking shorts, t-shirt, and no bike computer. We’re all riding the same route but in our own way.
Once again the plan for tomorrow is to start just before sunrise. I’ve only been successful a couple of times and it will be complicated by the 20 mile drive back to Sebree from Henderson.
Mileage: 65/3270 Transam Riders: 1 today/48 total for the trip


Ohio River ferry between Illinois and Kentucky

Missouri

Monday July 24th
Destination: Golden City, Missouri
Today was a fairly short day. After meeting Jani for breakfast in Gerard I rode on to Pittsburg which is a nice size town with a big library where I was able to get on the internet and update the blog. We passed into Missouri just east of Pittsburg and although the road was still straight as an arrow it had some fun hills. The only camping in Garden City is the town park. It was still early in the afternoon, I didn’t feel like riding further, and we didn’t feel like hanging out in the park all day so we drove to Lamar. Harry Truman was born in this town so it must be good enough for us.
The temperature was in the low 90’s today. There’s some talk of rain coming in the next few days but I can handle that as long as it doesn’t get too hot.
Mileage: 58/2771 Transam Riders: 0/43

Tuesday July 25th
Destination: Marshfield, Missouri
If someone had told me Missouri had great riding I would have said “show me”. Today was fabulous and now I’m a true believer. The terrain was hilly, the roads were nicely surfaced, there was very little traffic, and most of the time I had tailwinds. The roads were like a roller coaster; Jani even noticed it while driving the van. The hills didn’t gain more than a couple hundred feet but they kept coming all day long. A lot of them were small enough that I could hammer over them in the big ring; some of them were steep enough that it was hard work just to keep the cranks turning in the lowest gear. This is the terrain where it really pays off to not have to carry my gear. With a heavy load you would lose all momentum at the bottom of each hill and just have to grind it out to the top. I’m sure this country must test out the patience and perseverance of the heavily laden bikers, but I had a blast.
The temperatures have been increasing over the last few days and reached 96 degrees today. I finished by 1:30 which was when it was just starting to feel hot. I’d do well to get an early start in the morning since I hope to get to Eminence which is a little over 100 miles from here.
Mileage: 83/2854 Transam Riders: 0/43


Great Missouri Riding

Wednesday July 26th
Destination: Eminence, Missouri
I started riding just after sunup. There was a strong wind out of the southwest and a few high clouds. The clouds offered shade but it felt like the humidity has increased. I wouldn’t dare mention that to a local because I’m sure they would tell me it’s cool and dry weather for this area. You can only complain about it if it’s your weather.
As with yesterday’s ride there was no end to the hills today. They tended to be longer than yesterday and eventually took their toll. The last 5 miles to Eminence had some really impressive grades down to river crossings then up the other side. I remember talking with a German guy in Dubois, Wyoming who said he had measured grades up to 18% in Missouri. I believe it, and it looks like I’ll have more of the same tomorrow. All I can think of on climbs that steep is how much slower it would be if I was hauling a trailer.
We went through some interesting town names today. One road sign pointed left to Success and right to Houston. Of course we turned away from Success. After Houston was Yukon so we covered a lot of ground today.
The countryside is still very scenic. In places the oak and grass woodlands remind me of California. In other areas there are Pines that look like those along the Pacific Coast. It’s surprised us that everything is so green even this late in the summer. I guess that humidity is good for something.
Mileage: 109/2963 Transam Riders: 0/43


I saw manure but no buggies on the road

Thursday July 27th
Destination: Farmington, Missouri
The weather forecast says we are having “muggy” weather. It seems they’d have as many names for humidity as the Eskimo’s supposedly have for snow. I didn’t really mind riding in the heat yesterday; however I’m not too excited about trying to sleep while drowning in my sweat. By the time it was comfortable for sleeping the alarm went off. I slept in for an extra hour even though I knew it would mean riding an hour later in the heat of the day. My secret weapon was that we decided to get a motel room if things were too difficult.
The route out of Eminence continued yesterday’s theme with many significant climbs. I know it didn’t happen on every hill but it seemed like a truck would come up right when I was near the top of each hill. There weren’t any shoulders so all I could do was ride on the white line while watching my mirror. Fortunately all the trucks were very considerate and waited to pass until they could move over and give me plenty of room.
Jani and I have marveled at the turtles that cross the highways. Jani has seen some walking on the road; I’ve only seen them waiting in their shells. That might be a great evolutionary adaptation for animal predators but seems a little lacking in dealing with automobiles. Although it must work okay because I’ve only seen one flattened shell. One of the locals told Jani that it will ruin your tire if you run over them, so maybe evolution has worked after all.
Today while climbing one of the innumerable hills I saw a round black object in the road. It’s been several weeks since the rattlesnake experience and I’ve calmed down a little. You know what comes next, it was another giant snake. This time instead of lying flat it was tightly coiled and whipped its head around to watch me as I rode by. It looked like it had just been nicked in the tail and couldn’t or wouldn’t move. Now in addition to watching for oncoming traffic I have to continually scan the grassy shoulders.
We might make it into Illinois tomorrow which seems amazing. I went over 3000 miles today and have just over 1000 miles left. I still break out laughing when it sinks in that I’m really out doing this.
Mileage: 92/3055 Transam Riders: 0/43

Jani: I’ve seen so many pieces of black tire that I thought were snakes, so it figures that this time when I saw the perfectly coiled piece of tire that it ends up being a snake. I talked to the campground host last night in Eminence about snakes. He said to watch out for the ones with the triangular heads, which house the fangs.
The flies, and heat were getting to me, so a hotel tonight makes my day.


Turtle on road