Thursday, June 29, 2006

North through Idaho

Tuesday June 27th
Technically we’re not in Hells Canyon but we can see the furnace door and it’s open. I think today was the hottest day I’ve ever ridden. We’re camped at Brownlee Dam just over the border into Idaho. It’s 8PM, the sun has been behind the ridge for an hour, and it’s still 93 degrees.
We had breakfast this morning with Tom and Lucy who are doing a credit card tour around the Wallowas. It was fun to see friends as it helps to break up the trip.
Yesterday when I rode into town my shifter was acting up and almost not working by the time I found Jani. I started running through scenarios of ordering a new shifter and wondering how long it would take to get to Baker City. On the chance that it just needed lube I bought some and sprayed the internal mechanism. While I was looking at the bike I noticed something on the shift cable. I peeled off what turned out to be dried slug guts and the shifter is working great.
Just out of Baker City I caught 6 people who are part of a group of about 20 doing a supported ride. Everything was fine until one of the guys jumped on my wheel then it was off to the races. Each time I would back off a bit I would see four of them chasing me and would forget about trying to take it easy. It made for a quick 40 miles to Richland. The 1000’ climb out of Richland was made harder by the heat but Jani helped by stopping to give me water half way to the top. Then it was downhill for over 20 miles to Oxbow. There were only 12 miles left to go but they seemed harder than the previous 69 miles. It was scenic along the Snake River Reservoir but was so hot that I resorted to thinking about work to make it seem better.
It’s nice to be in a new state and we look forward to crossing to Cambridge then following Hwy 95 north past McCall. There are a few high clouds overhead but it’s hard to tell if they will come to anything. With all this heat I’d expect to see thunderheads forming. Time will tell.
Mileage: 81/698 Transam riders: 0/3


In Baker City


Halfway Oregon with the Wallowa Mountains


Our camp on the Snake River

Wednesday June 28th
This morning started with a 2000’ foot climb out of the Snake River Valley. The air felt humid next to the reservoir so it was nice to climb up to cooler air. The road then dropped down to Cambridge where I heard two locals talking about how hot it is. They may say that every day but it still made me feel better.
I rode along Hwy 95 through Council, and New Meadows, to Riggins. Today was the worst day for trying to get accurate mileages. Nothing matched, not my bike map, the state road map, the mileage signs, or the mileposts. The worst examples are when a sign will say “x” miles to a destination then another sign a few miles further will say “x + 2” miles. Usually I find them amusing but today was a long day and I wanted to know exactly how far I needed to ride.
The road through New Meadows was higher and not as hot but as I descended down the Little Salmon River Valley the wind felt like a hair drier. It’s still hot at our camp next to the Salmon River but feels like it will “cool” down a little tonight. There is a thin overcast which may keep it from getting as hot tomorrow. I saw one thundershower today and actually got a few raindrops but it didn’t amount to anything.
Several people have told me that there is a group of riders a day ahead. It will be interesting to see if we ever meet.
Mileage: 111/809 Transam riders: 0/3

Saturday, June 24, 2006

Across Oregon

Destination: Coburg, Oregon
We got a late start this morning but it was nice to hang out at Kevin and MaryRuth’s. After driving back to Rickreall I started riding where I left off yesterday. It was a beautiful day with blue skies and tailwinds to push me down the Willamette Valley. As usual the route took me on lightly traveled back roads and I only had to spend about 10 miles on Hwy 99. I rode through Monmouth, Corvallis, Peoria, Harrisburg, to Coburg where we are camped. I saw a Mennonite Church and many hand painted signs with biblical quotes near Peoria. I took them to mean that I will have to pay a heavy price for the heavenly tailwinds I had today.
Tomorrow we will head east towards McKenzie Pass. I still don’t know if the pass is open or if we’ll have to go over Santiam Pass. In any case I’d like to make it to Sisters but that’s 100 miles so we may pull up short.
Mileage: 64/267

Jani: I drove to Corvallis and parked in a shady spot, right next to a great bookstore. Looked around for awhile then walked Kira all around the downtown area. Found a nice park to walk in and watched the kids play in the fountains. I’d get a thrill every time I’d see Gary on the side as I passed by. Spent quite a bit of time in Harrisburg shopping. Then ran into Gary just as we were turning off for Coburg. So far he’s always ahead of me. How does he do it? The RV Park we’re in has a dishwashing sink, I wish they all did. Steak/mashed potatoes/green beans/cherries. Kira broke her collar trying to get to a dachshund.

Thursday June 22nd
Destination: Sisters, Oregon
I’m tired but happy about today’s ride. It was 100 miles with 5620’ elevation gain and I felt okay. I may take tomorrow off or do shorter mileage but the legs are coming around. The route followed the McKenzie River valley then went over McKenzie Pass. The pass is still closed to cars but bikes are allowed. It made for the best bike trail I’ve ridden. The road passes through lava fields at the top and gave great view of The Sisters, Mt Washington, and Mt Jefferson. On the descent there were swarms of butterflies over the road and I was smeared with fluorescent green bug guts by the time I met Jani in Sisters.
I met the first other Transam riders today. They were both English but that is where the similarities ended. The first rider had started from Virginia two months ago and told me that I was going the right direction since he had fought headwinds the entire way. When I told him that I was sorry for him but glad to hear that I might have favorable winds he told me that he thought it was cheating to travel west to east. He then complained about everything from the coffee to the three other riders he had started with but then left. I’m sure the other three will never regret leaving him. The second guy is a train driver from Newcastle. He can’t get enough time off for the entire trip and has done it in two sections: Yorktown to Breckenridge, Co last year; Breckenridge to Florence, Oregon this year. He was really nice which fortunately is the norm. It should be fun to talk with other riders even if they’ve gone the opposite direction.
Mileage: 100/367 Transam riders: 2/2

Jani: I spent the morning mailing a package; buying pillow/laundry bag/dog leash/collar/dog treats. Then somehow got turned around and was lost. The GPS came to the rescue. Bought raspberries in Walterville then continued on to Leaburg, all good family names. Kira and I had a blast at Suttle Lake. She was curious about a log in the lake and made the plunge to retrieve it (twice). Then chased butterflies to keep me entertained. Sisters town is a lot like Winthrop, with the Western styling and shopping. Our spot at Cold Springs campground had a creek running through it that was just right for Kira to jump over and run madly through. Ponderosa Pine completed the Western look.


Covered Bridge over McKenzie River


Three Sisters


McKenzie Pass

Friday June 23rdDestination: Sisters City Park
We decided to head towards Bend so I took off on the bike while Jani stayed behind in Sisters to look through some shops. It was a quick ride to Tumalo State Park but they were full so we drove to Redmond. After striking out at two RV parks we came back to Sisters and are camped in the city park. We did our laundry and it’s nice to be set for another week. I met another Transam rider from England so that’s three for three.
Tomorrow we’ll head east through Prineville then on Hwy 26 to Mitchell. There aren’t many towns through that part of Oregon so the mileage will be dictated by where we can stay.
Mileage: 18/385 Transam riders: 1/3

Saturday June 24th
Destination: Mitchell, Oregon
It’s hot on the way to hotter. At least it’s still a dry heat.
I was going to start riding in Redmond because of road construction but started ten miles out because the garage sale opportunities were too good for Jani to ignore. I rode a backroad (O’neil Hwy) into Prineville then took Hwy 26 over Ochoco Pass to Mitchell. The forest was very scenic with large Ponderosa Pines and lush grass everywhere. Once over the 4700’ pass it was evident we had passed into eastern Oregon. By the time I reached the bottom of the descent it was 20 degrees warmer and sagebrush was the only vegetation. I started to worry that Mitchell (population 179) was going to be a hot dustbowl that would make for an unpleasant night but it’s a nice little “town” consisting of a general store, cafe, hotel, and city park (where we are camped).
I know we’ll adjust to the heat. This is the first day we’ve had over 80 degrees all year. When it started to bother me on the climb I tried to remember all the dark, wet, freezing commutes last winter when I would have been glad to be too hot. The other change I’ve made is to break out the gin and tonics. Life is still good.
Mileage: 79/464 Transam riders: 0/3


Mitchell, Oregon

Sunday June 25th
Destination: Prairie City, Oregon
It was about 95 degrees today and is supposed to be hotter tomorrow. This morning was very comfortable temperature which was good because it started with a 1500’ climb. We went through more high grasslands before dropping down to the John Day River then took a short detour to see the John Day Fossil Beds. The visitor’s center has very good displays of many different fossils.
I had another day of good tailwinds which helped me finish riding by 2:30 in the afternoon. I got on the bike at 8AM but will try to get out earlier tomorrow. I only have to ride 68 miles but that includes climbing three passes on the way to Baker City.
I got a new reply after answering that I’m riding across the country. This one came from a little girl who asked if I was doing it to lose weight. No, but that would be nice. Other questions have been: Does your bum hurt? What kind of motorcycle are you on?
Mileage: 84/548 Transam riders: 0/3




Monday June 26th
Destination: Baker City, Oregon
It’s supposed to be 100 degrees today and it certainly feels that hot. The ride here was not that long but the climbing was over 4000’. The good thing is that most of the way was up in the forest and it was relatively pleasant. The bad thing is that there weren’t any towns along the way and I got very thirsty before getting water at a campground 50 miles from the start. I find that I need to drink at least twice what I normally would and am still dehydrated. I got to Baker City a little after 1PM and found Jani and Kira at the city park. We’re camped at an RV park just north of town. There are a lot of big trees with shade for us and filled with squirrels to keep Kira occupied.
Jani has been too hot to write in the journal but has still been able to find used clothing everywhere. She mailed home two more big boxes to bring the total to 4 or 5. I can’t keep track.
Tomorrow we’ll go through Halfway then cross into Idaho at Brownlee Dam. Oregon has been more scenic than we could have imagined but it will be nice to finally enter a new state.

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

The Oregon Coast


Bike Baptism

Sunday June 18th
Destination: Nehalem Bay State Park near Manzanita, Oregon
Today took forever to come and arrived instantly. I had to smile thinking about the dream finally taking wings. My parents joined us for the weekend at Ocean Park and this morning we drove out on the beach so I could take my bike and baptize it in the Pacific. I wasn’t going to risk full immersion and settled for just setting the tires on the wet sand.
It was a good ride today with strong tailwinds and just a couple of rain showers. I haven’t ridden in over a week so decided to take it easy today. Going over the Astoria bridge was aided by strong tailwinds. The route took backroads to Seaside that were much better than Highway 101.
I kept wondering if Jani and Kira were doing okay and hoped they wouldn’t be too bored. That was a waste of time since I made it to the campground before they did. Jani was able to stop at all the garage sales and thrift stores that I always complain about. It was a great way to start the trip.
Mileage: 75/75

Jani: He beat me to the campground in Nehalem. There was even a thrift store/recycling place right at the beginning of the campground that I had to skip. I talked the store owner at one store(in Long Beach) into a bag sale (she said just for you though). I knew it would be a great day. So I got one bag of cool hippie shirts there, and nothing else for the rest of the day except a lot of fun looking in antique stores. Kira is happy to ride along and go for a walk whenever I’m inclined. Camp site was right next to the beach access and across the street from the showers/restroom. Lots of dog interaction and people visiting with us. Surprisingly the corgi wanted to play with Kira.


Cannon Beach


Nehalem Bay State Park

Monday June 19th
Destination: Cape Lookout State Park (southwest of Tilamook, Oregon)
It rained first thing this morning but stayed dry after that. Once again the route followed side roads instead of 101. The traffic was so light that most of the time I could ride in the middle of the lane. Tailwinds blew me to Tilamook but I paid the price going north around Three Capes. It was cloudy and cool all morning then cleared off and is now sunny and beautiful.
I’m still taking it easy on the bike and look forward to getting my legs and having the confidence to push when it feels good. At this point my biggest concern is to not do something stupid. There’s just too much at stake.
The park sits next to a great beach. It’s the kind of place that would be fun to stay for several days. Tomorrow’s route will head east to Salem where we’ll visit my cousin MaryRuth and her family.
Mileage: 49/124

Jani: Today was Murphy’s Law, nothing worked out for me with the clothing picking. Places were closed when they were posted to be open. Had ice cream/red vines to console myself. Donated our beach chairs because they are impossible to get out of and hurt your back. Picked out a nice spot to camp, bunnies and squirrels all over the park, and a pristine beach to walk and play on.


Cape Lookout State Park

Tuesday June 20th
Destination: Salem
After stopping to watch surfers at Cape Kiwanda we headed inland. We had so much fun along the ocean it was hard to leave but it was nice to finally head east. The route followed old 101 from Neskowin to Otis and it was a beautiful detour with no cars. As the road climbed through the forest the only sound was the singing of numerous winter wrens and I finally began to relax and settle into the trip. I still don’t think ahead more than a few days but am beginning to find a rhythm.
When I rejoined the highway there was a lot of traffic but I know the route only takes highways when there aren’t any good back roads. I met Jani in Rickreall then we drove through Salem to MaryRuth’s house. It was good to see everyone and their beautiful home. The van is comfortable but it’s nice to be able to move around without stepping on each other.
Mileage: 79/203

Jani: Pacific City has a pretty beach. I remember being there with Jeff when Gary rode his bike down the coast to California. We were there early, so Kira had a chance to run on the beach before too many people showed up. Then Gary arrived and we played the running back and forth game with Kira. Stopped at a book store that had been operating for 40 years, new/used. I could have spent all day there. I arrived early in Rickreall so decided to look at Monmouth, only 6 miles further. Discovered people setting up a store to sell dead stock items from a store that had closed 20 years ago. They let me shop even though the sale was to start Friday. I bought 27 pairs of sta-press Levi’s/blue box champion shorts and cool hats, then shipped them home. We spent a wonderful time with Kevin/Tori/MaryRuth/Jana. Kevin made a gourmet salmon dinner. We played MaryRuth’s game Krijavi. Sort of like Scatagories but a fun version. Slept in our van in their driveway.

Friday, June 16, 2006

GOING, GOING, GONE



Jani - I remember when Gary asked me if I would be interested in driving across the U.S. Visions of vintage Levi’s danced in my head. They would be everywhere I visited. Now the reality will hit the fan. It’s been hard work getting the house/life ready for a 3 month sojourn. I knew when Womeldorff asked me if I wanted to do this excursion that it would be happening. He doesn’t mess around when it comes to play time. We’re still trying to leave Everett, just waiting for our son to finish cleaning his apartment at college, so that we can coordinate with him. Many thanks to Lea, Amy, Sheryl, Lisa and Linda for the sweet bookclub send off.

Gary - We’re finally off. It won’t officially start for a couple of days when I get on the bike but at least we’re packed and leaving home. Everything is in the van except for the kitchen sink….nope we have that also. I keep going over my lists and wondering if I’ve forgotten anything. Antarctic explorers from a hundred years ago probably spent less time worrying about what gear they were taking. Making it even worse is the fact that we’ll probably never be more than a few miles from a store, can order anything we could possibly want on the internet, and will have all kinds of technology at our disposal. The laptop I’m typing on must be many times more powerful than the computers on the Lunar Lander. The bottom line is that this planning has been a substitute for actually riding. I just need to start spinning the cranks, cranking out the miles, and hammering the hills. There is nothing wrong with me that a good dose of lactic acid won’t fix.

Hopefully the next post will tell how I dipped my bike tires in the Pacific and finally started gnawing away at the 4200 miles between me and the Atlantic.


Monday, June 12, 2006

Four Days Left

We’re in the final stages of preparation. Three more days of work then it all starts. We have everything together, now it’s just a matter of fitting it all in the van. I’m anxious to find out how much we can put in and still be able to move around.

It’s taken me a long time to settle on how many and just what spare bike parts to bring. Originally I planned on taking an extra bicycle but that seems like overkill so the spare bike will be left at home to be sent in case of emergency. I don’t want to think about my bike frame breaking but have broken five frames in the past so it’s always in the back of my mind. Most of the moving parts on my bike are new for this trip and should last long after the trip ends. However that still leaves the following spare parts: 2 tires, 8 inner tubes, 3 patch kits, 1 set of wheels, 1 chain, extra pedals, extra pedal cleats, and an extra “cushy” seat. The only thing missing is the partridge in a pear tree. Maybe I can buy one along the way.

People have asked what kind of training I’ve done for the trip. I cycle an average of about 6000 miles a year. Many of you know that last statement is a lie, not the part about the miles ridden but that I have to guess how many. I admit to having a slight OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder) when it comes to tracking numbers and will torture the data until it confesses to every last decimal place. Rest assured that I’ll try to spare the gory statistical details. Anyway because of my bike commuting and normal weekend riding I haven’t done any extra training. The increased fitness should come once we start, as long as I take it easy and don’t do anything to hurt myself.

It still hasn’t sunk in that we’re leaving in a few days. I just keep thinking of everything that needs to be done. It may not become real until we’ve been on the road for a week but in any case we’re about to find out.