Into the Heartland
June 7, 2009
It was a rough day of riding.
The day started out well. It was easy to get out of Leon and onto lightly traveled roads. The morning was very quiet and fairly calm, but I was apprehensive since the weather forecast was for moderately strong winds out of the southwest. The first forty miles were generally to the southeast with side winds through some scenic farming country.
This area of Spain is known as the meseta. It’s at about 2500’ and reputedly very flat. I had been wondering if it would be boring to ride through. I shouldn’t have worried since I enjoyed riding across Kansas. On a bicycle there’s more to look at, and listen to, than in a car. There are also many more hills than you would notice in your car. It wasn’t hilly, but it wasn’t dead flat either.
somewhere in kansas?
The last 30 miles were directly into a strong headwind. At times I couldn’t maintain 10mph, even on slight downhill sections. The wind was so demanding that it was hard to focus on anything else and I would forget that I was riding in a different country. If I’d been going the other direction my outlook would have been 180 degrees opposite.
I arrived in Zamora after 91 miles and a full 9to5 day on the bike. It’s an interesting town and not as touristy as Leon. The only other English speaking person I talked with was a Japanese tourist who was really happy when he found out I speak English. He said it was unbelievable that he finally found another English speaker. His luck ran out when I told him that I don’t live in Zamora and couldn’t help.
There weren’t too many places to stay in Zamora. Luckily happened on a good hostal (not hostel). Hostals are like a guest house and usually located above other businesses. The owner was very nice. She spoke to me in Spanish at first, because I was trying to speak the language. Then later she spoke with me in English. She was curious about my thoughts on Obama and I told her that it’s nice to travel without being embarrassed by my president. After giving me a beer the owner offered to do my laundry. No hotel has done that for me, but she does it for all guests.
typical rural town with cathedral and castle ruins
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June 8, 2009
It was a rough day of riding.
The weather forecast was for rain today, so I was pleasantly surprised to see some blue sky in the hotel courtyard. It was a nasty trick; I didn’t get past the city limits before the rain was bucketing down. At least the wind was mostly from the side. If it had been yesterday’s winds combined with today’s rain; it would have been brutal. There were just a few brief letups in the rain for the 4 hours it took me to get to Salamanca. Pouring rain and 50 degree weather are not what I expected, although last week was very hot and that wouldn’t be a picnic either.
Salamanca has a lot to see. I’m pretty worn out and seriously thinking about taking tomorrow off. It would be a lot better sightseeing with a fresher outlook.
Salamanca
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June 9, 2009
This has been a spectacular day, and I don’t feel the least bit guilty. After the last two days I deserved a break.
The pension in Salamanca wasn’t bad for a night, but I didn’t want to stay longer. My plan was to find another hotel for a second night in Salamanca, but the wind was still blowing, and in the direction of Segovia. I wanted to take advantage of my earnings and blew out of town. A tailwind is to a cyclist what spinach was to Popeye. Two days ago it was hard work to go 10 mph, today I could cruise along at almost 25 mph. I’ll gladly pay two headwinds (when I get home) for every tailwind in Spain.
flying with the wind at my back
After climbing a little from Salamanca the terrain was very flat for miles and miles. It was a lot like Kansas, except that instead of grain elevators visible on the horizon, there were cathedrals (in every town) visible for miles.
every town had a cathedral
My mood was so much better; I felt like a character in some corny Disney movie. At any moment the birds were going to land on my hands and sing to me. What a change, I used the same swear words for the wind, but in different ways. Instead of “#$%^& wind” it was “this is a #$%^& fantastic wind”.
As I flew through one town I heard school kids yelling at me. I didn’t understand anything more than “camisa” and “amarillo”. I was wearing my yellow-colored jersey. They were referring to the Tour de France; not a true comparison but I’ll take it just the same.
The tailwinds stayed with me for almost 90 miles. The last 11 were a little slow, but nothing like two days ago. It’s a beautiful approach to Segovia from the west and I knew instantly that this was the town/city where I should take a rest day. It’s much smaller than Salamanca and is in a much nicer setting. There are still a lot of college students running around, but not as many other foreign tourists. I don’t know what makes the other tourists think they can come to the same place I do. It’s especially aggravating if they’re Americans. What gives them the right to be in Spain while I’m here?
Pines started appearing as i got closer to Segovia
I spent some time trying to get a wireless connection in bars and only ended up drinking beer. The computer is frustrating although beer helps to dull the pain. Tomorrow I’ll drink more canas (schooners) and vino tintos (house red wine) in the pursuit of web posting.
Hasta luego.
June 10, 2009
It’s been a relaxing day with one exception; I can’t get connected up to wireless. The laptop will act like it’s hooked-up, then give a no connection warning. I didn’t want to become a slave to the technology, but here I am. So these entries might not be posted for awhile.
I went out at 8AM to find my typical breakfast: coffee and a croissant. Things were still fairly quiet. After collecting things from my room I set out on the bike. The city was crawling with tourists. They must come here for the day from Madrid.
The bike let me get to the fringes of the city away from the crowds. I explored the Aqueduct up the hill to where it ends. From there I rode to the edge of town to understand how to get out in the morning.
2000 years old and built without mortar
Segovia Cathedral
I also visited La Iglesia de la Vera Cruz (the church of the true cross) which was built by the Knights Templar in the early 13th century to hold a sliver of the cross. It’s a small church (since it only had to hold the Knights) and fairly plain. Quite a difference from the big cathedrals.
Church of the true cross
carvings next to entrance
Tomorrow’s route to Avila will take me across the Sierra de Guadaramas which are northwest of Madrid. It’s really close to Madrid so I hope the traffic won’t be too heavy. For the most part my routes have been secondary to major freeways.
June 11,2009
I just got to Avila. Another fantastic day of riding. 76 miles with 7800' gain over 3 passes. More to come, including pictures. Now it's time for a shower then cerveza, or wine, or both.
It was a rough day of riding.
The day started out well. It was easy to get out of Leon and onto lightly traveled roads. The morning was very quiet and fairly calm, but I was apprehensive since the weather forecast was for moderately strong winds out of the southwest. The first forty miles were generally to the southeast with side winds through some scenic farming country.
This area of Spain is known as the meseta. It’s at about 2500’ and reputedly very flat. I had been wondering if it would be boring to ride through. I shouldn’t have worried since I enjoyed riding across Kansas. On a bicycle there’s more to look at, and listen to, than in a car. There are also many more hills than you would notice in your car. It wasn’t hilly, but it wasn’t dead flat either.
somewhere in kansas?
The last 30 miles were directly into a strong headwind. At times I couldn’t maintain 10mph, even on slight downhill sections. The wind was so demanding that it was hard to focus on anything else and I would forget that I was riding in a different country. If I’d been going the other direction my outlook would have been 180 degrees opposite.
I arrived in Zamora after 91 miles and a full 9to5 day on the bike. It’s an interesting town and not as touristy as Leon. The only other English speaking person I talked with was a Japanese tourist who was really happy when he found out I speak English. He said it was unbelievable that he finally found another English speaker. His luck ran out when I told him that I don’t live in Zamora and couldn’t help.
There weren’t too many places to stay in Zamora. Luckily happened on a good hostal (not hostel). Hostals are like a guest house and usually located above other businesses. The owner was very nice. She spoke to me in Spanish at first, because I was trying to speak the language. Then later she spoke with me in English. She was curious about my thoughts on Obama and I told her that it’s nice to travel without being embarrassed by my president. After giving me a beer the owner offered to do my laundry. No hotel has done that for me, but she does it for all guests.
typical rural town with cathedral and castle ruins
View Larger Map
June 8, 2009
It was a rough day of riding.
The weather forecast was for rain today, so I was pleasantly surprised to see some blue sky in the hotel courtyard. It was a nasty trick; I didn’t get past the city limits before the rain was bucketing down. At least the wind was mostly from the side. If it had been yesterday’s winds combined with today’s rain; it would have been brutal. There were just a few brief letups in the rain for the 4 hours it took me to get to Salamanca. Pouring rain and 50 degree weather are not what I expected, although last week was very hot and that wouldn’t be a picnic either.
Salamanca has a lot to see. I’m pretty worn out and seriously thinking about taking tomorrow off. It would be a lot better sightseeing with a fresher outlook.
Salamanca
View Larger Map
June 9, 2009
This has been a spectacular day, and I don’t feel the least bit guilty. After the last two days I deserved a break.
The pension in Salamanca wasn’t bad for a night, but I didn’t want to stay longer. My plan was to find another hotel for a second night in Salamanca, but the wind was still blowing, and in the direction of Segovia. I wanted to take advantage of my earnings and blew out of town. A tailwind is to a cyclist what spinach was to Popeye. Two days ago it was hard work to go 10 mph, today I could cruise along at almost 25 mph. I’ll gladly pay two headwinds (when I get home) for every tailwind in Spain.
flying with the wind at my back
After climbing a little from Salamanca the terrain was very flat for miles and miles. It was a lot like Kansas, except that instead of grain elevators visible on the horizon, there were cathedrals (in every town) visible for miles.
every town had a cathedral
My mood was so much better; I felt like a character in some corny Disney movie. At any moment the birds were going to land on my hands and sing to me. What a change, I used the same swear words for the wind, but in different ways. Instead of “#$%^& wind” it was “this is a #$%^& fantastic wind”.
As I flew through one town I heard school kids yelling at me. I didn’t understand anything more than “camisa” and “amarillo”. I was wearing my yellow-colored jersey. They were referring to the Tour de France; not a true comparison but I’ll take it just the same.
The tailwinds stayed with me for almost 90 miles. The last 11 were a little slow, but nothing like two days ago. It’s a beautiful approach to Segovia from the west and I knew instantly that this was the town/city where I should take a rest day. It’s much smaller than Salamanca and is in a much nicer setting. There are still a lot of college students running around, but not as many other foreign tourists. I don’t know what makes the other tourists think they can come to the same place I do. It’s especially aggravating if they’re Americans. What gives them the right to be in Spain while I’m here?
Pines started appearing as i got closer to Segovia
I spent some time trying to get a wireless connection in bars and only ended up drinking beer. The computer is frustrating although beer helps to dull the pain. Tomorrow I’ll drink more canas (schooners) and vino tintos (house red wine) in the pursuit of web posting.
Hasta luego.
June 10, 2009
It’s been a relaxing day with one exception; I can’t get connected up to wireless. The laptop will act like it’s hooked-up, then give a no connection warning. I didn’t want to become a slave to the technology, but here I am. So these entries might not be posted for awhile.
I went out at 8AM to find my typical breakfast: coffee and a croissant. Things were still fairly quiet. After collecting things from my room I set out on the bike. The city was crawling with tourists. They must come here for the day from Madrid.
The bike let me get to the fringes of the city away from the crowds. I explored the Aqueduct up the hill to where it ends. From there I rode to the edge of town to understand how to get out in the morning.
2000 years old and built without mortar
Segovia Cathedral
I also visited La Iglesia de la Vera Cruz (the church of the true cross) which was built by the Knights Templar in the early 13th century to hold a sliver of the cross. It’s a small church (since it only had to hold the Knights) and fairly plain. Quite a difference from the big cathedrals.
Church of the true cross
carvings next to entrance
Tomorrow’s route to Avila will take me across the Sierra de Guadaramas which are northwest of Madrid. It’s really close to Madrid so I hope the traffic won’t be too heavy. For the most part my routes have been secondary to major freeways.
June 11,2009
I just got to Avila. Another fantastic day of riding. 76 miles with 7800' gain over 3 passes. More to come, including pictures. Now it's time for a shower then cerveza, or wine, or both.
posted by Gary and Jani at 7:48 AM
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