Avila

June 11, 2009

I never know when talking with people will be productive. There’s a shared frustration in most conversations, especially if people are busy doing their jobs. Three conversations have stood out in the past couple of days.

The first was with a woman running a fruit store in Segovia. She has an autographed photo of Pedro Delgado (winner of the Tour de France) in her store and told me he’s from Segovia. We talked about Spanish bike racers and her son who works in Boston. Second was when I checked out of the Segovia hotel and the owner asked me about my trip. I was able to tell him where I’ve been and where I’m headed. Then this afternoon in Avila I met two Argentinean tourists and we talked for quite awhile. They didn’t speak English and were very patient in dealing with my limited Spanish. Neither of these encounters lasted very long, but they’re a big part of why I’m here and what I’ll remember.

I left early this morning for the 20 miles climb up to a 6100’ pass. I wanted to make use of the cool morning. Shortly after leaving Segovia the road was in forest, first oak, then through pines. I only saw one other cyclist on the way up, but at the top there were dozens of cyclists. On my descent from the pass there must have been a hundred cyclists. Luckily I hadn’t climbed up that side or I’d have pushed harder than would be prudent.


Climb to Navacerrada Pass

I descended past the town of El Escorial and started up another climb. This time there were a few cyclists that passed by. They were going quite a bit faster so I could let them go. This climb started in Oak woodlands and soon climbed into open and dry country. I had asked a local about the climb and had been warned that there were very many motorcyclists. Since this is Thursday it seems like people should have been at work, but it looked like all of Madrid was out for a ride; even a couple of motorcycle cops came roaring past.


I let these two get away

Once on top (of the second pass of the day) the terrain was constant hills. They weren’t as long as the climb up the pass, but kept going and going. It was warm (I’m still saving the word hot for later) and not too windy so I made good time.

I’m starting to expect these towns to be located on top of the local hill. As fortress towns that only made sense, and Avila is no exception. It’s another elegant town with the distinction that it has a continuous wall around the old town. I made a tour of the wall; now it’s 9PM time for
dinner.


Outside the town wall. Swifts have been in every town.


Inside the town


Storks are nesting on every spire

Well I just had the worst (possibly first bad) meal in Spain. The last two dinners were at the hotel in Segovia. They were good as well as cheap (9 euros). Wine came with the meal and I don’t mean a glass of wine; they put a full bottle on the table. I must have pushed my luck because this Avila hotel dinner was on a par with dorm food. In a country full of fresh vegetables they just served up instant mashed potatoes, canned peas and beans. As bad as that sounds, the ambience more than makes up for the poor meal. I’m sitting outside my hotel in a small plaza. At 10PM it’s still light and warm out. The locals are all around having their drinks, the swifts are doing excellent imitations of Star Wars fighters through the narrow streets, and best of all I can have another glass of good and cheap (there’s that word again) house red wine. So don’t weep for me; I’ll get through somehow.


View Larger Map

Tomorrow I head east to Toledo. It’s supposed to be in the low 90’s. If I’m lucky there won’t be too much climbing and the winds will be favorable. I’ll have to keep in mind that this is the weather that I wanted when it was pouring rain.